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                  <text>Khevsureti is located in the high Caucasus north of Tbilisi bordered to the west by the Military Highway leading to Stepantsminda and the Russian border and abutting Tusheti to the east, although the two mountain cultures can only reach each other on foot or on horseback in the summer months by crossing the Atsunta Pass. The Khevsurs are known, like the Tushes, for their pagan culture and they are renowned for their traditional handicrafts. They are famous for their beautiful hand-stitched tunics worn by both men and women in which cross motifs play a prominent part. Khevsurs are legendary in Georgia for the fact that their men wore chain mail well into the C20th and, like the Tushes, they managed to retain their traditional pagan faith well into the modern era, although it is now being supplanted by Christianity. The upper region of Khevsureti beyond the Datvisjvari (Bear-Cross) Pass is cut off from the rest of the country in the winter, although the villages south of the pass are accessible throughout the year. As with Svaneti and Tusheti, Khevsureti has its own distinctive form of defensive tower architecture and the two most complete examples of this can be seen at Shatili and Mutso, both north of the Datvisjvari pass near the border with Chechnya.</text>
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                <text>Mutso, like Shatili, has a perfectly preserved complex of medieval tower dwellings. Unlike Shatili the village is not UNESCO listed and so there is more freedom open to the restorers who at the time of this visit were conserving the village. Mutso marks the end of the road - beyond this point there are only trails to other settlements and to the Atsunta Pass into Tusheti. The ancient village is located on a pinnacle of rock overlooking a bend in the river below and the climb to the settlement passes several tomb vaults (&lt;em&gt;akeldama&lt;/em&gt;) of the same type found at Anatori on the Shatili-Mutso road.</text>
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                <text>Emma Loosley&#13;
Peter Leeming</text>
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                  <text>Khevsureti is located in the high Caucasus north of Tbilisi bordered to the west by the Military Highway leading to Stepantsminda and the Russian border and abutting Tusheti to the east, although the two mountain cultures can only reach each other on foot or on horseback in the summer months by crossing the Atsunta Pass. The Khevsurs are known, like the Tushes, for their pagan culture and they are renowned for their traditional handicrafts. They are famous for their beautiful hand-stitched tunics worn by both men and women in which cross motifs play a prominent part. Khevsurs are legendary in Georgia for the fact that their men wore chain mail well into the C20th and, like the Tushes, they managed to retain their traditional pagan faith well into the modern era, although it is now being supplanted by Christianity. The upper region of Khevsureti beyond the Datvisjvari (Bear-Cross) Pass is cut off from the rest of the country in the winter, although the villages south of the pass are accessible throughout the year. As with Svaneti and Tusheti, Khevsureti has its own distinctive form of defensive tower architecture and the two most complete examples of this can be seen at Shatili and Mutso, both north of the Datvisjvari pass near the border with Chechnya.</text>
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                <text>Shatili is the capital of Khevsureti and lies several kilometres south of the Georgian-Chechen border. The medieval heart of the village is now UNESCO listed meaning that all restoration must be undertaken under rigid guidelines and modern additions such as electricity are forbidden. Partially for this reason the modern inhabitants of the village live in a series of houses around the ancient heart of the settlement that date from the Soviet period onwards. The site was forcibly cleared in the twentieth century because it was used as a Soviet airbase, but the local population has returned since the fall of communism and taken up residence in the well-built houses left behind by the soldiers as well as having adapted items such as abandoned railway carriages and storage containers for use as homes. Khevsur towers are distinct from those of Svaneti and Tusheti by clustering together and interlocking to form one fortified village rather than being divided into distinct family units. This type of village is closer to the architecture of peoples like the Chechens and the Daghestanis to the north, and indeed Chechen-style towers are interspersed with native forms across both Khevsureti and Tusheti. As with the rest of Khevsureti, Shatili is still largely pagan with a number of sacred enclosures and smaller shrines dotted around the settlement, however there is a new church and a small monastery in the village that witness to the growing influence of the Georgian Orthodox Church in even the remoter regions of the country.</text>
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Peter Leeming</text>
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